An odd swim
The
American author, Mark Twain (1835 - 1910), does not hide the malaise
that the Dead Sea inspired in him in the account he wrote about
his voyage to the Holy Land. For all that, he is not reluctant
to go for the compulsory tourist swim and risk the heavy density
of its brackish waters, which, in general, allow the bathers to
float:
It
was an odd swim. There was no risk of drowning. For you can stretch
out on your back, your arms crossed over your chest, with the
entire part of your body above a line going from the end of your
jaw to your ankles out of the water, and keep your hair dry if
you so desire. Nevertheless, you cannot remain in this position
for long nor in any other position for that matter because you
quickly loose your balance, tossed about on your back, then on
your stomach and so on. You can stretch out on your back very
comfortably keeping your head out of the water, as well as your
legs and feet from your knees down, using your hands to keep your
balance. You can, moreover, try to sit with your arms wrapped
around your bent knees under your chin. But then you will also
inevitably be tossed about as your weight is particularly heavy
in this position. You can even stand straight at a place where
your feet do not touch the bottom, remaining dry from your chest
to your head. But you will not be able to hold this position for
long because the water will have quickly pushed your feet to the
surface. By the way, you cannot swim on your back and expect to
advance even just a little because your feet will persist in rising
to the surface, leaving only your heels to propel you. If it occurs
to you to swim on your stomach, you will only thrash about in
the water in vain like a common paddleboat. Be it as it may, you
will not make much progress this way. A horse is so heavy that
it can neither swim in this sea nor remain in an upright position,
immediately toppling over on its side. Those of us that remained
in the water for more than an hour came out so covered with salt
that we sparkled like crystals. We scoured ourselves with particularly
rough towels and returned emitting a new rancid odor - which I
must say was not more unpleasant than the ones we bore for weeks.
M. Twain, The Innocents Abroad
During the War of Independence
between the Israelis and the Arabs (1948), the Jewish laborers of
Ramat Ashlag and Kallia as well as the settlements of Beth ha-Arava
had to evacuate their localities that were encircled by the Arab
Legion. In October 1948, units of the newly formed Israeli army
succeeded in occupying Sodom and in March 1949, in recovering the
southern part of the east bank of the Dead Sea to the north of Ein
Gedi. But it was necessary to wait until the Six Day War in June
1967 for the Israelis to secure control of the entire bank.
The most famous and most
luxurious of the oases that are located around the Dead Sea is indisputably
Ein Gedi, known since Biblical times for its aromas and its semi-tropical
fruit. The most important historical sites are certainly Qumran
- the site of retreat of a community of Essenes - and Massada -the
last bastion of the Great Revolt of the Jews against the Romans,
which did not fall until 73, two years after the fall of Jerusalem.
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